New Balance Numeric NM480 GTX Charcoal Black

NM480 GTX: a 1983 basketball model, made waterproof for the pavement

1983: the original 480 goes into production, built on the BB680 platform, and the basketball community picks it up fast. Forty years later, New Balance Numeric takes the model off the court and onto the street, keeping the original's coveted cushioning. Three adds to the spec sheet: a double-layered, widened toe cap for durability, a modified tread for traction, a sturdy heel counter for stability and support. This GTX release pushes the remix further, with a full-grain leather and ballistic mesh upper lined with GORE-TEX technology. A 480 that takes the weather.

The full-grain cowhide is dyed charcoal grey, matte and slightly clouded, with brown glints when light hits it flat. It covers the toe cap, the sides and the heel, and draws the big N, embossed tone on tone and ringed with a black outline. Between the leather panels, black ballistic mesh fills the forefoot and the lacing area, and a black panel at the back carries the GORE-TEX label. The black laces are thick and flat, the tongue gets a burgundy New Balance 480 label, the collar is black and padded, and the black insole shows the ABZORB mark. Down below, the black sole climbs up the toe and the heel, with burgundy stitching at the seam to the upper. Underneath, a zigzag tread, a circular pivot point at the forefoot and a burgundy patch with the NB logo.

First topic: weather. The GORE-TEX membrane protects feet from wind, rain and water without sacrificing breathability, according to the manufacturer. For cushioning, New Balance goes with FuelCell foam, billed as propulsive to help drive you forward. The heel counter, added by Numeric, brings stability and support, and the modified tread aims for better traction. The lacing area, a high-wear zone, gets a reinforced eyestay with tack stitching.

Care instructions

A GORE-TEX membrane won't make up for a clogged upper: dirt gets in the way of breathability. After a rainy outing, brush off the mud dry with a soft brush, then wipe the leather with a damp cloth and give the mesh a little clean water. Dry at room temperature, never on a radiator, with crumpled newspaper inside to pull out moisture. To feed the full-grain leather, one thin coat of a conditioner rated GORE-TEX-compatible is enough. Last point: the membrane protects the upper, not the collar opening. In a puddle deeper than the collar, water comes in from the top.

FAQ

• Is it really waterproof? The manufacturer states that it features a GORE-TEX membrane which protects against wind, rain and water whilst remaining breathable. It’s a jacket: water entering through the collar opening isn’t stopped.
• What is ballistic mesh? A very tightly woven fabric, known for its abrasion resistance, combined here with leather.
• What’s different compared to the original 480? In its Numeric version, the 480 features a lined and widened toe cap for greater durability, a modified sole profile, an enhanced heel counter, and, for this version, an upper made from full-grain leather and ballistic mesh – with the waterproof GORE-TEX membrane, of course.
• How does the 480 fit? Having had so many people try them on in-store, we can say that the NM 480 runs slightly large – not that you should go a size smaller, but it does offer plenty of room, particularly across the forefoot. Perfect if you have slightly wide feet.